| Rinchenpong, the Place where Heaven Descends! | | | | Day three. Six in the morning we get started in our |
| Driven by the incessant spur of WIS [wanderlust | | | | trekking gear on way to Menlapso. A knowledgeable |
| infestation syndrome] we head on to west Sikkim, the | | | | local arranged by the hotel manager would be our |
| area from where the mighty snow clad Mt. | | | | guide through a forested track along the glen to the |
| Kangchendzonga peer at you from every corner of | | | | southwest of Rinchenpong. As we strode along we |
| the hill coves. The scenic beauty of the place came to | | | | soon realised that we were literally on the road less |
| dawn upon us as our vehicle took a sharp turn on the | | | | travelled by. This part of Sikkim was indeed spared the |
| road-bend along the silent valley on the approach to | | | | spoils of urban invasion. This was pure natural world of |
| the cool settlement of Rinchenpong [1700 meters | | | | wholesomeness in pure organic state. |
| above sea level]. The world's third highest peak | | | | This day trip was to be the acclimatisation tour |
| [28,028 feet] captured the horizon with its mid-day | | | | preceding a longer trek we planned to take along Hilley |
| glory of snow-white against the blue sky. It was a | | | | - Barsey - Uttarey circuit on the Singalila. |
| surreal effect of the colossal, blending into the beguiling | | | | Rinchenpong has a history with the British colonialism. In |
| surrounding in the foreground, etching an intense | | | | the early decades of 19th century the rulers of Sikkim |
| statement on the idyllic. | | | | backed the British in their war with Nepal, and |
| As we enter the precincts of Rinchenpong something | | | | subsequently benefited by recovering some of its lost |
| appeared amiss about the place. Unlike my earlier visit, | | | | territories. |
| no body greeted us in their typical exuberance. Not a | | | | However in the mid 1800's when the British tried to |
| soul was around in the large opening in the centre of | | | | annexe Sikkim on its expansionist agenda, the people |
| this tiny hamlet...not even a curious face looking out of | | | | violently resisted the occupation and British rule. And on |
| the nearby homes. We wondered what was wrong. | | | | November 1st 1860 when the British sent their troops |
| Was it some local tension that kept people shut behind | | | | under the command of Dr. Campbell, the |
| the doors or was it a day of mass hibernation that we | | | | Superintendent of Darjeeling, to occupy the village of |
| did not know about? | | | | Rinchenpong, they camped around a pond for the night |
| Well, it was none of these as we found out from the | | | | just outside the village, the villagers fought the imminent |
| driver of a passing vehicle, a little later. It was a rare | | | | invasion in the wiliest style of the Sikkimese and |
| occasion for the residents of the hamlet to partake in | | | | Tibetan ambushmen. |
| a friendly volleyball match with a neighbouring village at | | | | While the troops slept after hard days of trekking, the |
| the grounds next to the local monastery. Almost the | | | | villagers stealthily mixed in the water of the pond a |
| entire populace of Rinchenpong [only a few hundred] | | | | deadly plant poison. Next morning least suspecting |
| had moved there to cheer their folks. Indeed the name | | | | what awaited them, the soldiers consumed the water |
| of the place stood justified by such community revelry. | | | | and perished even without being able to put up a fight. |
| Rinchenpong in Lepcha dialect means the 'place to | | | | That's history of course but 'Bikh Pokhri' - the poison |
| assemble'. Pong means place and Rinchen stands for | | | | pond, is still there just like any other pool of murky |
| assembly. | | | | water, sans the poison. |
| Luckily the manager of the hotel where we were to | | | | Day four. We drive down to Hilley. This would be our |
| stay held his fort. We were provided a couple of | | | | first stop on the trekking circuit. It would be a short trek |
| rooms with small balcony that opened up to the | | | | on a 4 km hill track to Barsey Rhododendron |
| picturesque sight of rolling green hills culminating into the | | | | Sanctuary 10,500 ft. up in the Himalayas. And Barsey in |
| spread of the huge white majestic massif over the | | | | a way represented the oft-used sobriquet on Sikkim |
| horizon. The beauty of this place was in the little | | | | as 'rhododendron country'. This being springtime the |
| settlement holding to its natural, unaltered look without | | | | pleasant trek had to be in company of colourful |
| much invasion of urbanised ambience that plagued | | | | blooms all the way. |
| many otherwise beautiful places in Sikkim we visited | | | | Trekking in the hills always has its pleasant surprises. In |
| earlier. A couple of hotels and a few homes | | | | Sikkim Himalayas too there was a fair share of it like, |
| surrounded a large open area in the centre that also | | | | suddenly a rustle among the foliage on the slopes |
| served as car parking space for the locals and visitors | | | | below would reveal the Himalayan black bear hurriedly |
| to the place. And the road from Jorethang passed | | | | moving away to distance itself from human intruders in |
| through this hub towards the neighbouring settlement | | | | its territory. Or up among the blooming trees you could |
| of Kaluk and beyond. | | | | spot the magnificent colours and mating displays of the |
| Short walks around Rinchenpong would take you to | | | | Scarlet Minivet, Fire-Tailed Sun Bird or even the Giant |
| the 18th century Buddhist monastery that housed the | | | | Indian Hornbill. We reach the sanctuary and the |
| 'Ati Buddha' idol showing Buddha in meditation with a | | | | trekker's hut at the top, where we would put up till next |
| woman in embrace. This is symbolic of the primordial | | | | morning. |
| form of the Buddha the creator. The ambience of the | | | | In the evening we gather round a campfire with some |
| monastery as with most such place of worship in | | | | locals in company. In a casual chat we try to find out |
| Sikkim is serene and one could come across groups | | | | about their way of life and ask them about how they |
| of young boys taking spiritual lessons. | | | | live it out in this remote location. Sikkimese people are |
| It is a custom among the Tibetan Buddhists in Sikkim to | | | | generally a reserved lot, but when they open up, they |
| send their sons to the monastery for a year or longer, | | | | come out in stupendous flow. Predictably, we got a run |
| breaking off from their formal school education to help | | | | down of things they usually do for a living and soon |
| them understand and adapt the tenets of the religion in | | | | enough we found out that they are migrant workers |
| their living. During this time they adapt to a life of | | | | engaged in odd jobs here who would spend the |
| austerity and live like a monk in yellow and maroon | | | | monsoon and winter at their villages below and come |
| colour robes in tonsured heads. I personally feel it is a | | | | up here during spring and summer when there are lot |
| very honest facet of Buddhism to allow understanding | | | | of tourist visitors. This extra earning provided these |
| of the faith early in life, so that a person takes to it by | | | | poor people some support with their family finances. |
| choice in adult life. And to me, the peace loving | | | | As we sipped on the beverages circled around the |
| Buddhist always appeared to be happy with their way | | | | fireside, folklores that do their rounds in this part of the |
| of life and culture. | | | | country put an excellent touch to the evening at this |
| And Rinchenpong the hidden Eden had more to reveal | | | | high place, presented by the locals. |
| in its neighbourhood. The five-month long winter was | | | | Day five morning after the mist thins out, we proceed |
| melting into spring and the landscape was coming alive | | | | along the ridge to descend from the northern slopes |
| with wildflower blossoms all over. Predominant among | | | | on our way to Uttarey. In this wonderful trekking |
| them were rhododendron and orchids. Heavens, | | | | expedition yet another most amazing surprise awaited |
| nothing could beat the colours and exotic flourish of | | | | us about a furlong and half away. Our guide suddenly |
| these blooms all around the hills. Some call Sikkim the | | | | stopped and with the index finger of his left hand |
| rhododendron country and some say it's the orchid | | | | placed over his lips suggesting silence, he pointed |
| paradise. Well, I think it's the fusion of both making it a | | | | towards the cluster of bamboo shrubs to the right. |
| Himalayan wildflower domain. It's a delight to be here | | | | And there was an Indian Red Panda visible partly |
| around this time of the year. | | | | through the shrub. The magnificence of this furry cat |
| When I passed through this village once earlier I was, | | | | was indeed striking. The Red Pandas, the state animal |
| bowled over by the serenity of the place. A local had | | | | of Sikkim, are a rare sight as they are very shy, |
| then told me 'befriend this place for a while, seek | | | | reclusive animals and live away from human habitats. |
| deeper and then sense the way it reveals itself'. He | | | | But here was a perfect specimen oblivious to our |
| had seeded the urge to come back again and here I | | | | presence, busy with its breakfast. The Red Himalayan |
| was with my friends in the cradle of Rinchenpong. | | | | Panda although considered a small bear much like its |
| We decide to just relax for a couple of days in this | | | | Chinese cousin, actually belongs to the racoon family. |
| hidden Eden, invigorate ourselves in its freshness and | | | | The similarity is palpable in its face, whiskers, pointed |
| get going with some trekking around the Singalila | | | | ears and the furry striped tails. The distinct difference |
| Range to discover the mysteries of Shangri-La a little | | | | is its brighter looks and a much charming appearance. |
| up close. The Singalila Range forms the boundary | | | | As we strode the hills, I realised give and take this |
| between Sikkim and Nepal that originates from Mt. | | | | exploration of west Sikkim was indeed the fascinating |
| Khangchendzonga and extends southwards towards | | | | Shangri-La experience that could be lived many times |
| Darjeeling hills. | | | | over without remorse. |