The Shawl Industry in India

The shawl has existed in India since the ancient timesspun wraps of different textures and weaves. These
providing protection against the freezing cold. Thewere later embroidered with soft silk floss and phulkari
mention to this fine piece of garment was first found into add to its rich appearance. The warm and
the Mahabharata, the Ramayana and thecomfortable Kashmiri stoles were also dyed in
Atharvaveda. It also finds a mention in the ancientdifferent shades to add to its appeal.
Buddhist texts and literature.International market:
Support for the industry by the Mughals:The garment got its major recognition during the British
The Kashmiri wraps were popular all over the world.era. The British were totally perplexed by the Kashmiri
During the Mughal rule, Punjab and the North-Weststoles and shipped them to Britain. Their remarkable
Frontier became the center of shawl making. Thepopularity spread to other countries as well that have
Mughal emperor Akbar was completely hooked by thea great market for these finely produced fabrics.
Kashmiri wraps and encouraged weavers to produceRevolution in the industry:
new designs. He tried several new ways of wearingDuring the 19th century, the weaving method of
one and was instrumental in starting the twin shawlKashmiri shawls changed due to the ever increasing
fashion. These types were embroidered with preciousdemand worldwide. The shawls were now woven
stones and metals for the use of the royals.separately into parts and later stitched together by a
Migration from the valley:rafoogar. This period also witnessed the popularity of
The Mughal kingdom led way to the Afghan rulersthe embroidered wraps in the foreign market.
who levied heavy taxes on the said industry. TheShawls from other states:
weavers were forced to leave the Kashmir valley andThe shawl industry in India also grew at the same time
migrate to Punjab. Following the great famine and thein various other states such as Bengal, Gujarat Assam
Afghan harassment, Amritsar became the new centerand other North Eastern states. The phenomenal
for production. The migration of Kashmiri workers ledgrowth of the industry was closely associated to the
to the development of the industry in other settlementsweaves, textiles and designs. These stoles presented
of Punjab as well.the cheaper options and came in beautiful designs and
Innovative ideas:colours.
Earlier designs consisted of hand woven and hand