Kham, East Tibet

The news was shocking!mountains seemed to freeze over before our eyes.
The ticket agent at the Shangri-la bus terminal inAt 5,008 meters we reached the highest altitude of
Zhongdian, Yunnan province was happy to tell meour trip.
over and over, in both Chinese and English, that yes,At the bleak Dongdola pass we encountered a
foreigners can now travel east through the Tibetsettlement of nomadic shepherds (drokpas) living in
Autonomous Region to Lhasa … overland andblack tents while herds of emaciated yak-cows
without a permit! I really couldn't believe what I wasgrazed the surrounding frozen pastures. These gentle
hearing, but rather than falling down in rapture, Ipeople of an inhospitable land were dressed in simple
agonized over taking advantage of this new policy orhand-woven attire, but they were extravagantly
continuing as planned on my already-paid-for,accessorized in coral, turquoise and silver jewelry.
government-authorized, one-week tour across KhamThese shepherds had seen few white faces in their
to Lhasa. Ultimately, it would have been silly for me notlifetime. One drokpa family had yet to see a digital
to choose the latter.camera and they were mesmerized by the sight of
The decade-old Land Cruiser was in surprisingly goodtheir own images on the LCD screen.
condition, having driven through Tibet 99 times. We setAt Pomda, a noise-polluted junction of logging trucks
out through northern Yunnan to the crags of Feilaisi,and tractors, we met a bunch of international
finding ourselves at a dizzying 4,000 meters abovebackpackers and hardcore cyclists sitting at the literal
sea level and nauseously breathless, to stay overnightcrossroads that connects the northern route of the
at a roadside pilgrimage site of sun-bleached chortens,busy Sichuan-Tibet highway with the less-traveled
wind-tattered prayer flags and a stunning view ofsouthern roads. From there, our journey took us
Mingyong Glacier.through and down into verdant terraced hamlets and
Bright (a light so bright it was hard to believe) and earlypatchwork plots of land fed by snow springs, over the
the next morning, we continued into undulating hills.Salween River to the unbelievably mint-blue twin lakes
Vistas of incomparable beauty revealed themselvesof Rawoktso. Dodging Kham's morning traffic of goats,
with each bend. The forest was a tapestry of earthylamb and yak-cows (yes, cross-bred), we pressed on
shades, in orange, purple, browns and greens, both lightalong the boulder-strewn road of the Sundzom Valley,
and dark. With the iridescent blue sky and cottonypast the Parlung Tsangpo white water rapids and old
white clouds above us, we traced perilous dirtavalanches of frozen snow to Tongmei, where we
switchbacks whose collapsing shoulders threatened toencountered our first real obstacle.
toss us hundreds of meters below into the MekongRumors had been circulating amongst the
River; it looked peaceful enough from above, its banksbackpackers we'd been meeting on the road about a
and farmland dotted with eye-catching, whitewasheddowned bridge at the Brahmaputra and Parlung
adobe homes that seemed to beckon us into Tibet.Tsangpo convergence, which would prevent anyone
"Xizang!" our driver called out. In fact we had been infrom continuing on to Lhasa. It turned out the bridge
Tibet for half a day, but how could we know withoutwas fine but a landslide on the other side had literally
having crossed any sort of border or being stoppedwiped the road off the sheermountain face. Anyone
by officials asking to see our papers? We had towanting to continue on had to either nimbly navigate a
remind ourselves that entering Eastern Tibet was nownarrow footpath or wait a week or longer.
a permit-less process and all the checkpoints on ourSo it was here that we said goodbye to our Land
maps and guidebooks were recently abandoned. WeCruiser and crossed the bridge to meet another driver.
celebrated our unbeknownst entry into the TARThe organizer of our trip told us via cellphone from his
(Tibetan Autonomous Region) by spending the day incozy office in Kunming that the new driver would be
the small, dusty city of Markham. Winding down fromwaiting "just a short walk" from the landslide. It turned
its weekend market, the city was brimming with theout to be an arduous four-hour hike up a treacherous
splendor of the traditional Khampas population:mountain path above the Rongchu gorge, in the dark
golden-skinned women with their long striped dressesof night, under the pouring rain of Tibet's monsoon
and colorful plaits, and large-sized men with lengthyseason. We braved the muddy slopes, deftly crossing
braided hair woven with red Chamdo tassels and awashouts and literally dodging falling rocks from above,
solid jade hoop. We were greeted by dozens ofbefore finally arriving at a construction workers' tent
red-cheeked, runny-nosed children dancing around us.made from a giant nylon bag. The Israeli and British
My European traveling companions were constantlybackpackers decided to stay while my companions
surrounded by a crowd of curious adults, who tookand I trekked onward, in search of our new driver.
turns running their fingers along the thick blonde legWith our new vehicle and driver, we headed onwards
hairs, then letting out a collective fascinated murmur.toward Lhasa. Passing vivid fields of yellow youcai
Traveling through Eastern Tibet can be compared withflowers, we arrived at the famous Draksumtso, an
experiencing the four seasons in just a matter of days.azure lake and lush Alpine forest which would have
While we started with clear skies and venerablebeen breathtaking had it not been for the sea of
forests, the next morning took us into icy tundra.baseball cap-wearing tour groups - the isolated beauty
Ascending 99 bends into the Hengduan Range, theof Eastern Tibet was behind us.